Coyote Flaco, Hartford
By Frank Cohen
With attention to detail and affordable prices, Coyote Flaco in Hartford offers delicious Mexican favorites.
The Ecuadorean family behind Hartford’s Coyote Flaco restaurant
(or Skinny Coyote) has had a couple of decades to figure out what its
customers like, having opened its first restaurant in Port Chester,
N.Y., in the 1990s. The Hartford location was its second, a Mansfield
location its third.
The cozy restaurant is a little more spacious than it appears in passing,
augmented in good weather by a large wooden porch.
There’s a six-seat tile bar. A red and green color scheme that runs
throughout the dining room is supplemented with interesting
Latin American knickknacks. You might find a reproduction of Diego
Rivera’s “Peasants” across from a gambling, cigar-chomping skeleton
in top hat and tux.
Coyote Flaco’s food is authentic enough to appeal to everyone, as
proven by its diverse clientele. More than just being delicious, which it is,
the food is attractively plated, with clever use made of tortilla cup holders,
rice molds and colorful sauces and cheeses. Every detail on every dish seems
important, even though no entrée exceeds $16 and many get nowhere near it.
Tried and true recommendations include: Empanadas, Tortilla Soup,
Carne a la Tampiqueña, Trio Norteño and Churros. But there are innumerable
other temptations, including tacos and tamales, burritos and quesadillas,
chimichangas and enchiladas, flautas and fajitas, Pollo al Molé and Salmon
Poblano. Appropriate wines, good craft beers, and even better cocktails,
are offered. The margaritas are said to be great.
No one leaves the restaurant a coyote flaco. Este coyote es muy gordo ahora.
Coyote Flaco, 635 New Britain Ave., Hartford; 860-953-1299; coyoteflacohartford.com
As seen on the Hartford Courant on June 25, 2016.